Morgan Boyce is an incredibly talented knitwear graduate of De Montfort university. Her innovative technical work with knits really intrigued me along with her drawings and conceptuality. I had the pleasure to ask her some questions. I would like to do more of these to give student designers a representative platform. Enjoy!
Can you start by telling us a bit about yourself as an individual and as a designer.
I’m a Fashion Design graduate from De Montfort University specialising in Knitwear for Womenswear. I consider clothes as art forms for the body which enables me to push the boundaries in terms of unexpected silhouettes and textures. It is key for me that my designs follow a meaningful narrative often relating to my personal experiences or family history to give an emotive edge to my clothes. I ensure all my clothes are responsibly designed by having a heavy dependence on natural fibres throughout my couture knitwear with fully fashioned panels to minimise waste as much as possible. My ambition is to disrupt the codes associated with traditional knitwear in order to make unique and exciting garments that I believe there is a gap in the market for.
Going through your portfolio you started as the traditional definition of an artist drawing portraits and then eventually the human form and then clothing in about 2018. Can you tell me about this evolution and how constructing clothes became your main focus.
I always took Art and Textiles both all the way through school and A-Levels looking at more traditional art-forms of portraiture and getting to grips with dressmaking which I was really able to get creative with during my Art Foundation year before my degree.
What interests you particularly about knitwear. What is a knitwear major like at fashion school?
I wasn’t ever sure if i was to take Textiles or Fashion Design but once I had decided on Fashion, knitwear gave me the space to still build up surface and texture to then design clothes from. The sampling process is always something that drives my work, I find that the fabric itself informs the silhouettes for me.
What attracted you to catholicism and the outfits of nuns? Can you tell me more about free derry and your relationship with the northern ireland rebellion and how it informs your most recent collection. Why do you like to do historical references?
I initially wanted to make this collection because I think there is a gap in the market for unexpected silhouettes in knitwear outside the norm of a jumper/cardigan. I want to strengthen the association between knitwear and occasion-wear to empower the wear and make them comfortable in their bodies with feminine yet unique shapes. Following on from my capsule collection ‘Sunday Best’ I really wanted to continue exploring religious dress juxtaposing it with modern casual dress references.
What attracted you to catholicism and the outfits of nuns? Can you tell me more about free derry and your relationship with the northern ireland rebellion and how it informs your most recent collection. Why do you like to do historical references?
The community of Northern Ireland has always been something I wanted to explore because of my family’s connection to the place (my gran’s side all originate from there). The segregation and deep issues within the community aren’t often seen so close to home in modern day society. The idea of masked identity is extremely present throughout my research which translated to me exploring the idea of balaclavas and camouflage. I want to take the power out of these symbols that have strong associations with violent unrest and use my natural and muted palette and textures to give them a new look – no longer aligned with a single side of the fight.
Can you elaborate on your use of uniforms in your work and how individual identity is often replaced with the identity of the clothes they are wearing. Why is this so important present day?
I always want to use historical and emotive references to give my clothes a purpose in amongst a saturated and overwhelmed market of mass produced garments. I want to use ethical production aligned with my way of working so I am a cohesive and transparent designer.
What part of designing, constructing, and styling clothes is the most fun for you?
I really loved the sampling process but it was so rewarding to be a part of my final photoshoots seeing my clothes move on a body was so amazing.
If you were to estimate, how long did each look take in your most recent collection?
My most recent collection we were first briefed on the project on it at the end of January of this year all leading up to a May-time deadline and the exact making time I would estimate at 6 weeks for just the final garments.
What are your goals in the fashion industry, what would be your ideal future after graduating? Do you have any plans so far?
I would love to gather experiences I can following my graduation this year and hope to study a Creative Knitwear Masters Degree and anything that comes my way I am really excited for:)